![]() Salsa Anything Cage or King Many Things Cage.3mm and 7mm Drill Bit (and/or step drill bit).Riv-nut tool ( bestseller on Amazon and a cheaper, manual option).Carbon steel rivet nuts ( 50-pack on Amazon).There are DIY options (see the video at the bottom of this post) as well as a $15 manual setter that does the same thing (linked below and shown above-right). As long as you have a drill, the biggest investment is the actual rivet nut tool. However, there are also zinc-plated carbon steel options that might work even better with a chromoly frame.įortunately, there aren’t too many things you need to make this happen, aside from a standard power drill and a few odds and ends. After a bit of research, I chose to use stainless steel rivet nuts as they won’t corrode when in contact with Chromoly steel like aluminum inserts would. Rivnuts come in several types of metal as well. To match the threading of a standard bottle boss, you need the M5 x 0.80 size rivnuts. “Rivnuts,” also known as rivet nuts or threaded rivet inserts, come in all shapes and sizes. Alternatively, look into have a frame builder braze on threaded water bottle bosses, or there are many other ways to mount bags and cages-stay tuned for a full list. In the end, it’s much cheaper than buying a new fork. Unless I was expecting to haul an extremely heavy load, or to encounter massive drops and jumps, I personally wouldn’t hesitate to do this with any production steel MTB frame. That said, steel MTB forks/frames are built to carry a lot of weight, and to withstand very rugged circumstances. So, if you are interested in drilling holes in a perfectly good steel frame, here’s how it went and what we used to make it happen.īefore we go on, are you sure you want to drill holes in your frame? Be aware that rivnuts require rather larges holes (~7mm) and some folks suggest that they might weaken the frame. it’s more about how I did it and what I’d do differently if I were to do it again. Now that we have another related post in the works, I thought I’d finally dig up my notes and photos to share what I learned. Don’t overtighten if you do you’re liable to snap the screw off, snap the bolt off, or loosen the sleeve into which the fastener is driven.The rivnut on the middle-right is partially compressed next to others left uncompressed.Overdrilling the hole slightly prevents that problem. If the fastener or sleeve bottoms out and sticks out of the hole, obviously tbat’s not going to work too well. Drill the hole approximately 1/4 inch deeper than the length of the fastener or sleeve that will be embedded in it.Dust is easy to remove, a simple puff of air from a bulb syringe, a can of compressed air, or use a small shop vacuum to pull it out. ![]() Dust and chips can bind a screw as it’s driven into the hole and they can cause a sleeve to slip, such that it will not bear properly when a screw is driven into it. Always remove dust from the hole before driving a screw into it or inserting a sleeve.Pulverizing conctete with a drill bit creates dust, and some of that dust becomes airborne while drilling and, later, when you clean out the hole.Īnd that brings us to a few other points that are frequently overlooked: All of this can cause debris to go flying. Concrete chips can fly, a masonry screw may inadvertently break, you might even snap the drill bit itself if it gets bound up against a piece of reinforcing steel. Wear your safety glasses during every step of the process. Since you start with a drill and bit, that’s where we’ll begin this discussion.Īmateurs and professionals alike often forget that safety and drilling a high-quality hole go hand-in-hand when fastening to concrete. Once you have that hole–properly known as a pilot hole– you can drive a masonry screw or bolt into it, or you can install a soft sleeve into which you can drive a wood screw or sheet metal screw. This tool makes short work of punching a reliable hole in concrete, mortar, brick, Portland cement plaster (stucco), and even many types of stone. More specifically, the cordless drill with a hammer function. The thing that changed all that is the ordinary cordless drill. If you’ve ever tried driving hardened-steel nails into concrete or tried to make anchor sleeve holes with a wobbly rental masonry drill and a dull rental drill bit than you know about frustration. Years ago, fastening to concrete was difficult and hit or miss. The job’s bad reputation was well earned but is out of date. The best way to fasten to it, especially for DIYers, is to just dill a hole and drive a screw. Many people struggle with fastening to concrete–and other masonry surfaces, such as brick and concrete block.
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